One of the best Gaultier Couture shows ever.  Its amazing  how  it reminds me all that I left behind when I moved to Spain some years ago…The Virgins, the big sun hats, the vegetation  and  the strong Mexican imagery…

The collection has a review of mexican folklore by diferent  historic etapes, since the ancient civilizations passing by the Spanish invation and  finishing  in the middle of the past century. I find totally amazing how Gaultier worked the garments remembering lots of  traditional mexican artisan techniques, colors and textures. Especially because  I dont use to like couture shows, but this one I found it incredible, of course  I cant be  objective because it touched my sensitivity but  its undeniable the great work, I found really interesting  the  accesories aswell, like the bags that seem to be realistic  leaves or all the overelaborate  jewellery.

I remember some collections ago when Gaultier  had a similar inspiration for his collection at Hermes,  but it was more about tex-mex, ranchero and western landscapes. Now he returned to the inspiration with a colorfull and strong vision accompanied by the singer Arielle Dombalse who grew up in Mexico…

All the Pictures @ Catwalking-copyright © 2010 Christopher Moore Limited

Paris menswear shows had just finished and  one of the surprises between my favourite  collections from Damir Doma or I. Miyake  was  Adam Kimmel’s Presentation…

Its obvious that he was inspired by the Casino aesthetic but everything goes farther…  He had a strong inspiration on the New York painter George Condo and his obsetion with gambling,  using cashmere V-necks, green velvet smoking jackets,  bomber jackets and capes with roulette prints to  show great  outfits for a sharp-dressing high roller.  Talking about the amazing prostetic masks, they look like museum pieces,   surreal but refined at the same time. Condo designed 18 of them in his signature grotesque style, which also appear  in Kimmel’s lookbook.

Gabe Bartalos, the Hollywood prosthetics artist who collaborates with Matthew Barney, sculpted the Condo heads that will be exhibited and sold after the show.

All the pics @ catwaling, copyright © 2010 Christopher Moore Limited

Miuccia Prada  -one of the few Italian designers Im respectful to-  has just presented this amazing short movie directed by The Chinese Artist Yang Fudong, inspired by eastern philosophy and  an interesting saying about making a good start to the year’s work,  its  in resume, exotic and flamboyant but at the same time elegant and neat…

The contrast between  the minimal  lines of  the Prada Suits and the extreme folklore makes this video curiously atractive, despite that is obviously a beautiful long advertisement with a nod to the oriental monster market and the eternal attraction from occident to this “Mysterious culture”… Talking  about the black and white aesthetic,  of course it sends us directly to an other time, but on the other hand its a bit sad to lose all the  color explosion  from the amazing costumes and decoration,  anyway, its a nice and beautiful contribution  from Prada  since the Prada transformer…

Director. Yang Fudong – photographer. Zhou Shuhao – production and sound mixer. Huang Xun – production manager. Zhu Chongwe – make-up artist. Luo Luo, Tai Yunxia – wardrobe supervisors. Wei Xiaoming, Ni Liping – art director. Lu Tianhang – music. Jin Wang – gaffer. Diao Guohua – editor. Huang Binrong

Despite everyone would say,   Puerto Rican Atonio Lopez  is  and will be, one of  the best fashion illustrators ever next to other great fashion illustrators  from the 70′s and 80′s such as  Tony Viramontes.   Drawing  at that time was very important in the magazines, maybe the same as photographs today, so thanks to his nervous and self assured line he  became  a fashion star very fast and worked for several publications as Vogue, Interview, The New York Times, Harper’s Bazaar or Elle. But tragically,  Antonio died  in 1987 of AIDS when he was just  forty-four years old.

Here is the cover of one of his amazing books called Antonio’s Girls, where you will find collaborations with muses  he discovered  as  Pat Cleveland, Grace Jones, Tina Chow, Jessica Lange and Jerry Hall..